In The Dark

Yesterday was an eventful day. I had to maneuver through the day key-less, wallet-less, and phone-less after leaving my purse in Wasilla the night before. James had his first day of his last semester, but was late to his 8:30 class (and 1st day quiz--engineering school is so fun!) due to snowy, icy roads and traffic. After work, I drove to Wasilla (on those same snowy, icy roads) to go to a Bible study with Mom Kuenning and Kiana (and get my purse). Then James called having been sent on a work errand to a commercial neighborhood . . . and run out of gas miles from a station! He was rescued by Dad Smith (Thank you!).

Finally, I came home to James and Titus in quiet domestic tranquility and set about preparing a hot ham dinner (with steamed veggies, baked potatoes, and cranberry sauce, yum!). Then the lights flickered and went out, came on, went out, came on, and went out one last time. While the lights were going out each time, I looked out the window down the street and saw blue and red fireworks (or so it seemed) sparking in time with weird grumbles that either came from our confused printer or the electric meters mounted on the wall below our window. It scared me so badly, that I quickly opened up the electric bill that just happened to have come in the mail that day, took the paper over to the candle that I had just lit, and dialed the electric company to report the problem.

Our hot ham dinner turned into a cold ham dinner with cheese, crackers, and Craisins, but it was a romantic candle-lit dinner (James said he felt Medieval eating cold ham and hunks of cheese by candle light. Pepsi = Ale?). With no computer, music, or even extra light to distract us, we were focused on each other and our simple meal. After dinner and a waterless clean-up, we took Titus out. We were half convinced that the southern part of our street was on fire, but all we saw was darkened apartment windows, black streetlights, and snow. We walked until the deep snow filled our shoes, and then we turned around and followed our footsteps home. We really settled in then. I lit all the candles I could find and cleared the table for a game of Settlers. About half way through, my phone rang with an automated message asking if our power had been restored. It had not. As we were putting the game away, a brilliant light and noise filled our apartment. After nearly three hours of blackness, the electricity was on again. We got both an automated message AND a personalized message then. It's nice to live in America!

The quiet evening was suddenly full of the hum of the refrigerator, the rush of hot water through the pipes, and the hiss of air in the water spigot. The softly glowing lights disappeared in the harsh glare of the overhead bulbs. The reminiscing of by-gone days and exploring Ukrainian sewer pipes with candles seemed pointless now. I thankfully brushed my teeth with fresh cold water and showered in fresh hot water, all to the friendly light of a bathroom vanity bulb, but I could not help but think how helpless and dependant we have become upon modern amenities. If the electricity was out for good, what would we do for water, heat, cooking, refrigeration, hygiene?

Thankfully, de-cluttering the front closet allowed us to find our other flashlights and batteries for just this time. Candles and matches were just within reach as well. Our pitcher of water in the fridge didn't take us that long to go through, though. I think my next steps in our emergency kit making will be to put an extra gallon or two of water away for us and Titus, buy a decent sized bottle of waterless hand wash, and post all emergency contact numbers where I can find them in the dark!

The Town Mouse and the Country Mouse

I want to write something quick while I have a chance, but I'm afraid there is no way I will be able to even hint at all the adventures we have been on since last we posted.

I will begin by saying that we have arrived safely in Moscow, no thanks to Ukrainian customs that tried to keep us prisoners in their border, a Yak-42 passenger plane which I felt positive was going to fall apart in the sky (Especially since it started smoking on take-off...), and a lack of contact information for our friends in Moscow which left us wandering the metro dragging green and purple "Look I'm a stupid American" suitcases for the better part of our first day. However, our safe arrival is due entirely to Great friends in Mariupol that saw us off with wonderful hugs and good wishes, Alan Burow, my long time companion and friend, who rode with us all the way to Donetsk and then waited for us to get through security even though we were so focused we forgot to wave goodbye (sorry Alan, we love you!), and a team of American friends that waited an hour and a half at the metro waiting to receive us like a fragile delicate baton, lifting our bags and taking us to the apartment we sleep in tonight. In all of this we can not go with out mentioning how obviousit is that God is at work in our trip. Our safety and strength is directly from Him and there is no doubt of that fact. We thank you all for your continued prayers.

Today was Sunday. We made contact with the congregation Andrea used to work among. There were many smiling faces and hugs, and seriously our afternoon with them (12:00-4:00) really deserves it's own post. There were a lot of mixed emotions involved, but it was a wonderful time overall.

After this we were pulled into going to the apartment of one of Andrea's old acquaintances named Vika. We sat and talked with her for maybe two hours about her "illness" and how the government keeps trying to force her to stay in a "hospital" and how she doesn't want to take her medication because she's trying to write a novel and her "illness" helps her to write, and how she has a really cool friend who hears voices telling her to kill people. It was pleasant. I didn't take any pictures for fear that the flash might startle her.

Our feet are tired. If we had been walking in place this whole time we would be nearly buried by now. Our legs ache. Our backs are sore. Our poor brains are fried in every language. At this time Andrea and I communicate mostly by grunts and whistles. Our pockets are emptying quickly, and time is running out. But we are absolutely having the time of our lives, and loving every single second. It's beautiful.

-James

Flying Time

I'll try to sum up our last two days in Ukraine. Such hot and beautiful days. Would you believe that it was 33 degrees outside yesterday afternoon? Uzhasna. Thursday morning it was lovely to sleep in a little, laze around the house, and slurp cereal in the kitchen, but not for long. At 12:30, we met the American's teaching English classes at the "Palace." Cute kids and inquisitive adults listened to our life story, oogled over pictures (another wonderful thing to bring here), and giggled as we taught them how to sing "Head, Shoulders, Knees, and Toes" and "I'm in the Lord's Army." Then we returned to the Burow's and headed downtown with Elizabeth, Allan, Brandon, and Katie to go to the new coffee shop. The coffee was terrible, but the variety of cakes was mind boggling and those we tried were delicious. On the way back to the Burow's, James and I got off the bus at the Azovstal factory where we bought a few crystal pieces to take home with us.

. . .

We'll write more later about Thursday and Friday. Right now, Saturday morning, we are waiting for a van to take us to the airport, two hours away, so we can fly to Moscow. Please keep the flight, customs, and contact with people in Moscow in your prayers.

God bless you.

-Andrea

Constitution Day

Who doesn't celebrate the 28th of June? And when the sun shines so beautifully and the sea sparkles so invitingly, how can one resist? Our last morning meeting at the church, James and I enjoyed participating in Tim's class on love. We divided into groups that created different new products and then had to try to sell them to the class. My group made a new cereal "Dried Animals with Sunflower Seeds" (it sounds little better in Russian). James' group developed a television show. The group shown, were demonstrating their new band by singing "My God is so BIG!" We had a lot of fun. Oh yes, and it did relate to love and how Jesus brought us a new kind of love--His kind.



James and I decided to go downtown to spend some special hours along exploring places that were special to us. We visited a park with a corridor of busts interspersed with park benches. At the end of the walkway we looked out over a lovely view of the sea with ships seemingly floating low on the horizon. Then we went to "Chaika" or "Seagull" for an elegant lunch where we feasted on three courses off of white linen and china for about $12 each. Then we wandered around the shops and markets buying cherries, CDs, and a six month anniversary present (for me).

In the evening, we attended the evening lesson (also on Love) taught by Sasha, the new preacher at the Mariupol Church of Christ. He is a great man with lots of energy, some playfulness, a little bossiness, and a wonderful heart and attitude. His wife Ira is the ideal helpmeet for him: wise, sensitive, and caring. In some ways, it's good we're not here for long. I'm afraid we'd fall in love with some people and never want to leave again.

After the lesson at the church building, a bunch of us tromped over to Tim and Mina's again for delicious (and fiery) kimch soup with rice and seaweed rolls. Such delicious flavors all in one! No wonder when James thinks of Ukrainian food, he mostly reminisces about Mina's cooking! I have a lot to live up to.

-Andrea

Oreos and Coffeemate

We arrived in Mariupol bearing gifts. Each of us had packed half of our suitcase with American candies, Alaskan souvenirs, and wedding favors. We are so thankful that we did. There just aren't enough ways to show people that we love them and have been thinking of them. Giving an unusual taste of America is somehow soul soothing when there aren't enough words or hours to share our hearts. We make sure to explain that we don't bring Sprees, Sweettarts, and Pop Rocks, because we believe they are better than the delicious Ukrainian candies, but because we know they are different. However, the face of Ukrainian consumerism is changing. Since we arrived, I have been amazed to discover very American products popping up on the shelves: oreos and vanilla flavored coffeemate, for example. Yesterday, during our afternoon free time we visited the new Super Walmart type market, "Amstore." Soaring Costco height ceilings and aisles of every kind of product from barbecues to crossants. People are able to use "credit" for the first time in their life and are excitedly buying cars, apartments, and furniture without paying upfront and in full. James and I can't help but feel a little worried for the new craze, but it's leading to exciting changes.

With Alyona as a translator, James taught the morning youth class on Tuesday's theme: Hope. He did a fantastic job of teaching. He started with a game which offered hope of a reward (Tootsie Rolls), then had them play a game without any hope of reward. The kids were so enthusiastic about everything, it almost didn't work as an example! Then he talked about Jacob and Rachael and their hope for marriage after Jacob's seven years of work, then of their disappointment (and Leah's). Then James talked of the hope that doesn't disappoint. I think it went really well.

After a delicious potato soup lunch at Tim and Mina's, we went downtown, past downtown, and out of town to Amstore. We came home just in time to go to Emma's, where we had made arrangements to go on Sunday. She speaks a little stilted, mumbled English and has a bad hearing aid. She made boiled chicken and cucumber-mayonnaise salad for us. For dessert was a delicious and beautiful loaf of sweet bread swirled with nuts. We enjoyed talking with her in a mixture of Russian and English and learned a little about her fascinating past. At the end of the evening, she pulled out a faded photo album. So much history! We said goodbye at the door, then she walked us home. It was so sweet of her, but I couldn't help feeling a little babied. I think it's sometimes hard for some people to see someone who stutters your language as a fully functioning adult. Oh well. It was a beautiful summer evening walk.

It's a scorcher!

Well, today didn't even pretend to be mild. From the first moment we walked outdoors it was "Whew!" brow-mopping hot. Yesterday, sitting in the sun during the morning service I got my first sunburn of this trip, today I got a taste of smothering heat. The climate here is about equal to Ohio, but an Ohio without air conditioning where we have to walk everywhere. Mariupol is so beautiful this time of year. I love the big shady trees and the lovely flower gardens growing in the most unlikely places. They make the whole adventure of walking around the town, in whatever temperatures, enjoyable.

Our day started off perfectly. After a blessed 10 hours of sleep, we woke at eight in time to shower and breakfast with everyone staying at Tim and Mina's house: Brandon, Katie, Becca, and the family. Mina had eggs, bacon, toast, strawberries, tea, and juice for us. We then walked to the church building where I met with the Ladies' Bible class, and James met with the youth group. For two hours, I bonded with Ukrainian women who I had know for such a short time. We laughed, sang, read scriptures, and cried together, encouraging and teaching each other. It was wonderful.

After Bible class, James and I needed to go to downtown Mariupol to buy our tickets to Moscow for this weekend. Brandon, Katie, and others decided to go with us. We decided to meet in a little basement pizzeria after James and I picked up our visa's at the Burow's. Unfortunately we didn't remember the door code. We sat there for several minutes as we took turns trying alternate combinations while the neighbors watched with growing suspicion. We thought we would have to wait for someone to come along and open the door, when I hit the correct combination, and the door swung open. Back at the pizzeria, most were done eating and decided to go on while we waited for those finishing up. They left us with a borrowed cell phone, but left before we realized that it was locked with a pin number. James bolted out the restaurant door after them and disappeared. Becca realized that she didn't have enough to pay the bill for her table, and left to go to the bank. Valya and Katya went home for bus fare. That left me alone in the basement of a Ukrainian pizzeria trying to convince the waitress that someone would be returning with money. James returned and bailed me out. Then Katya and Valya returned, but no Becca. Valya pointed off to the east where she had seen Becca taking off at a run for the bank. We waited on the corner for another ten minutes when we saw Becca approaching from the west. Our only likely conclusion is that she circled the earth. We are still amazed.

Suddenly, the sky erupted in thunder. We were in for a drenching. We boarded the bus for downtown and three hours after we had originally set off, we arrived in downtown Mariupol. We visited the optometrist to get little Sasha glasses, the travel agency to get tickets for James and I, and the Univermag (indoor market) to get suprizes for Isaac and Adam. And then it was time to go home. Walking home from the our bus stop, the cannals of water were so wide and difficult to cross that we had to meander further uphill to find narrower streams to step over. I gracefully cleared a small stream just right so that I ungracefully stepped in a small mud slick, and before anyone knew what was happening, I was down on one knee in the mud and water. Fun. My clothes will wash. My dignity wasn't worth that much anyway. My cream colored, crocheted handbag will never be the same.

At six o' clock, we joined Brandon and Katie and their visit to little Sasha and his parents. We had a nice evening with them and ate dinner at the restarant where Tatyana, Sasha's mother, works. We are increasingly impressed with the improvement of apartments and restaurants as "remont" (remodeling) is the new big craze. The little room where we ate dinner had a fish tank built into the wall, perky sea green wallpaper, inset ceiling lights, and an ornate stone waterfall at one end of the room. We ate Ukrainian pizza, drank black current juice, and enjoyed ice cream decorated with bitter chocolate dust and colored coconut confetti. We again found ourselves in a half translated, half untranslated sea of conversation in two languages. We chatted about Ukrainian "football", politics, and literature and gave gifts that we had brought from America. This trip has tested and stretched our Russian skills for sure!

Unbelievable that it has only been three days in Ukraine! Our days have been so full and so rich. What a blessing.

-Andrea

Resurrection Day

Sunday here in Mariupol turned out to be a very big event. We showed up at the building for worship service and found over 150 people standing in the yard. There were so many people, and it was wonderful seeing all the faces I knew and loved talking to people I didn't. The church here is honestly thriving, and stretching its seems. We had service outside and the rows of seats ran halfway down the building and there was a section around the corner, facing the podium from the side. It was great.

A majority of the time was spent with several different speakers (American and Ukrainian) standing up and talking about the past ten years of the church here on the left bank of the city. Hal Pendegraft talked about coming for the first campaign, Sasha, Hal's long time translator, talked about his experiences being converted by the yearly campaigns. Tim Burrow, the full time missionary and our AIM coordinator talked about the many programs and directions the church has been involved in. Finally, Sasha, the Ukrainian fulltime minister got up and talked about the future of the congregation. The rest of the service was wonderful as well. I had missed the singing so much, and it was good to be a part of my family here again as we rejoiced and praised God. The remainder of the days events were very laid back. The games and activities planned for the afternoon were put off in trade for long conversations with old friends sitting in the shade.

After a short nap back at the the Burrows house (we are staying in Elizabeth's room, with Brandon and Katie in Alan's), we left for a birthday party we were invited to for my good friend Roman. Roman is a very good friend of mine that worked as my translator periodically while I was here, but struggled, and struggles still with alchohol problems. Going to his house for a birthday party where he was inviting friends was potentially troublesome. But we left the house on faith that he would never drink in our presence as he seems to respect who I am quite a lot. It turned out I had braced myself for the wrong situation though, when I arrived at Roman's house a little after 6:00 to find Roman, the usual table of cookies, and two young Mormon boys (One named 'Elder Kitchen' whose name tag in Russian was neatly translated "Old man Kitchen"). Oh, and Roman's twitchy antisocial "girlfriend" was there, but didn't do much more than hide her face in her hands and look at the floor. After the intial shock of feeling lead into a trap the evening went quite nicely. It's wonderful to live in such a beatiful and interesting state like Alaska, so in a pinch you can talk for over two hours on the subject with just about anybody.

Roman's mother Allah was there too, but she mostly just mumbled nonsense that Roman refused to translate and then would shake her head sadly and say quite clearly, "Poor James has complete forgotten how to speak Russian." Something Andrea and I have heard several times since arriving. Sometimes they say it after ten minute long conversations. Everytime we get to a part of the conversation we don't understand they stop trying to comunicate with us and say to themselves something like "Two years they lived here and they don't even know the word forupeesotromvaski!".

Tuesday morning I teach a lesson on "Hope" to a few of my old friends in the youth group. I have to go study. I believe Andrea will come soon to write about Monday.

We love you all. Thank you for praying for us. It is very obvious that God is working.
-James

Two Days Till Sunset

We are finally back in Mariupol. It seems amazing to have traveled such a distance, and our bodies will probably not be adjusted until it is time for us to leave for Moscow a week from now. We left Anchorage at 9:00 am Thursday, and arrived in Mariupol about 1:00 am Saturday morning. We also jumped eleven time zones to get here, periodically stopping in places like Minnesota and Amsterdam and resetting our watches to local time. I completely lost track and gave up trying to figure out what time it was supposed to be. It was like trying to tell time in space. It didn't help at all that we were exhausted no mater what time it was, and I don't remember seeing the sun go down till after we had been traveling for a day and a half.

Being here in Mariupol is like living in a dream. It's as if everything is completely the same and I never left at all, but small things are strange and different. Certain people that are missing, other people that I don't recognize at all, but everyone else is best friends with. It's been fun getting to know everyone again.

This week is going to be absolutely packed. There are so many Americans coming to town. Everyone that has any connection to the congregation over the past ten years is coming back for this Sunday. Ukrainians are coming from all over the city, region, country. It's going to be very crowded and very exciting to see. The church in this part of Ukraine has a lot of growth to reflect on, and appreciate. But after Sunday morning the schedule has just begun. The week is planned from 10:00 to 8:00 everyday to be busy with the church having lessons and fellowship and games and singing. The Congregation here is not wasting a single opportunity to be with all the special people that are going to be around. It's wonderful. I really hope however that we will not be so busy doing things as a group that we are not able to connect with people individually, and travel the city as I'm wanting to again. But God's plans be praised. He has worked things out so perfectly already in getting us here, I can't image not trusting him to work out our reasons for being here.

And with that, we have a youth gathering at the building we are late for. Keep us in your prayers, and know that we love you and are having a wonderful time.

-James